Showing posts with label clothes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label clothes. Show all posts

Saturday, April 23, 2022

Whatever Happened to Hardy Amies?

Dig this briefcase I bought at Book Off a couple months ago. It's the best one I've ever had. It's solid and big enough I could carry an outfit or two if I wanted in addition to a laptop. And it was only around 2000 yen, or twenty dollars. Much less if you consider how far the yen has fallen recently.

Book Off sells used stuff but Japanese people treat their things really well, it seems like new. I was deciding between this one, which is Hardy Amies, and a Samsonite in a similar colour, more of a yellow green than this one's blue green. Ironically, in his book, ABC of Men's Fashion, Amies himself said, "It should be noted that greens with a brown cast--i.e. olive green--are much more becoming than blue greens such as bottle green which is as ugly as its name."

And the book has a blue green cover!

So, yeah, I liked the case so much I bought his book. First published in 1964, it features Amies opinions and advice ordered with alphabetised headings. Not everything holds up--see, for example, his vision of the man of the future:

Under the entry for "Brim" Amies writes, "Today the tendency is to have as narrow a brim as can be achieved without looking ridiculous." I would say "ridiculous" has in fact been achieved in the above picture.

He has plenty of smart things to say, though. He has a lot of praise for Chelsea boots.

When Chelsea boots first appeared in the late 1950s it quickly became certain they were the most appropriate form of footwear to wear with narrow trousers and formal suits. When a new style is tried because the customer thinks it is fashionable or amusing and he then finds in wearing that it is practical, you can be pretty sure that you are going to get an established trend. The style is practical because elastic sided boots are very easy to put on and off as time and trouble for tying laces are avoided.

Which sure is useful in Japan when you have to take off your shoes all the time. That's why I exclusively wear Chelsea boots outdoors now:

Also because I do a lot of walking in the countryside and the rain. The brown ones are waterproof. The black ones, which I bought at H&M a year ago, are already wearing out with big holes in the bottom.

Amies could be witty. Under "American Styling":

The American will not be uncomfortable. This has led him to an insistence on lightweight cloths which in their turn can only be used successfully in suits the lines of which are more loose than restricting. From this they have developed a typical look in urban clothes. Dark in cloth and usually white as to linen; and completed either by a tie too violent in colour or pattern (rarer now) or going to the other extreme of a plain black knitted tie.

Whilst this conservatism is often admirable for the middle aged it can be criticised as being completely unadventurous. The American seems to have a horror of being different; except in play clothes where he is quite happy to be a horror.

Amies, who designed clothes for 2001: A Space Odyssey and Queen Elizabeth II, died in 2003. His company went bankrupt in 2019. I guess it goes to show how important the head is to the body.

Monday, December 10, 2018

With Maisel Frosting

I'm three episodes in on the new season of The Marvellous Mrs. Maisel. Every episode is like a slice of cake. The pitch perfect snappy dialogue from Amy Sherman Palladino and the wardrobe are so sweet, both coming through as a loving rendition of mid-century films I really dig. The wardrobe was never this perfect in real life, of course, but who needs real life?

Burgundy seems to be Midge's (Rachel Brosnahan) favourite colour again but there's more to her wardrobe than that, all contributing to an overall look that's simultaneously intensely girly and sharp as fuck. I like this intensely pink outfit she wears when she gets to Paris:

The matching pink plaid hat and the little gloves--the little gloves have little bows!

They remind me of Grace Kelly's gloves in To Catch a Thief. Donna Zakowska, the main costume designer, is nowhere near as bold as Edith Head, Hitchcock's costume designer, but the perfectly pleasant combinations are delicious. The men's wardrobe is less exciting. Joel (Michael Zegen) has this nice enough blue and cream outfit until he puts a grey coat on it which somehow makes it all so plain.

Kevin Pollak looks good except very 2000s. The tie that blends quietly with the shirt seems much more this century.

Tony Shalhoub generally gets some disappointing blue and brown combos but I was impressed by this double breasted leather jacket he wears when he's trying out being Parisian:

It's the women who get the really nice clothes, though. Even Susie has something kind of perfect about her. I love how she rolls her pant cuffs like Marlon Brando in The Wild One;

This diner scene made me really hungry for french fries. Also the subtle sea scheme of Midge's blue and green outfit is a nice change for her:

The sets and locations are lovely too. I wish department stores still looked like the one Midge works at and that wedding was like a beautiful animated wedding cake. I felt so bad for her when she automatically went into stand up comic mode and ruined everything. She has both impeccable taste and then suddenly terrible taste. I can relate.